![]() ![]() Otherwise, the set up worked the same and the brake linkage was the same. IOW, the entire set up was exactly reversed from the configuration on the left clutch and with a strange right angle ball joint to boot. The fine threaded adjustment rod with the right angle ball joint was attached to the clutch throwout lever - but the ball assembly was much larger. Today I pulled the cover off the RIGHT steering clutch (for comparison) and, lo and behold, the entire configuration was DIFFERENT! The spring loaded ball joint coupling (AT 17365) was attached to the RADIAL arm linked to the steering lever (vs the clutch throwout lever as on the left clutch). Separate subject: All my previous posts on this subject dealt with a problem in my LEFT steering clutch. Maybe the design engineer for the 350 thought you need fine adjustment on clutch links? design engineers can be a bit anal like that. I always thought these kind of threads were used on machine tools such as lathes for fine adjustments. None of it makes sense for use on a bulldozer. I can also tell you how I got the broken ball stud out of the steering lever but all that might be more than anyone wants to read in one post. Why does that ball coupling seem prone to break and why did JD use machine threads on the adjuster rod? I have theories for both if anyone is interested in hearing. There is no force pulling against the threads at any time during normal operation. ![]() Of course that weakens the thread structure in the coupler a bit, but the new jam nut (a standard 3/8 fine thread) should take most of the pushing stress when you activate the steering lever as long as you snug the jam nut against the adjustment coupling (17365). The tap went through easily since there is not much difference in the pitch (24 vs probably 28). My solution (after lengthy discussion with my JD parts person who couldn't figure it out either) was to run a 3/8 - 24 tap through the clutch shaft coupling (17365) and rethread it. If you lay the old and new parts side by side, you can barely see the difference, but it becomes obvious when you try to put the old jam nut on the new adjuster rod or screw it into the clutch shaft coupling (PN 17365). The new part has standard automotive fine threads (3/8 - 24) on both the adjuster rod as well as the ball side that screws into the steering lever. The problem is the old L shaped link with the ball and socket (PN AT17364) has a different thread pitch (smaller, machine thread I think) on the adjuster rod than the part they want to give you to replace it (AT317916, I'm guessing). If it won't have a point where it can roll, the brakes are probably engaging too soon in relation to the clutch adjustment.Been there, fixed that - just yesterday (I think). Pull back just a bit more and it should stop due to the braking. If all is correct, there should be a point when the crawler starts to roll backwards (not just stop). Then, gradually pull back on both levers. Let go of both steering levers and start climbing the hill. Put the trans in 2nd gear, and reverser in forward (if you have one). With a new one, back off one full turn.Ĥth - get your linkage adjusted so the clutch disengages just before the brake grabs. 1/2 turn and let it snap into place (it has cams on it). Turn it until snug, and then back off aprox. It has a hex on top that takes a 3/4" wrench. ![]() ![]() Anywhere inbetween can work fine.ģrd - make sure the brake band has the proper "initial" size adjustment that is independent of any linkage. There must be some play, and there should not be excessive play. I.e., make sure the clutch pressure-plate fingers are not riding against the throwout bearings when the steering levers are at rest. If not, you have to get the linkage unstuck first.Ģnd - make sure the clutchs have free-play. Ssmitto8 wrote:Can anyone tell me if it is possible to adjust the steering clutches on a 350 with out taking it all apart? (is there an inspection plate, etc.) ThanksĪs long as you follow certain fundementals, the adjustments are not very critical.ġst - hold your foot down hard on the brake pedal and then see if you can move both steering levers back and forth freely. ![]()
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